Friday, September 13, 2013

Fast Forward

If the Le Puy route was Skyline Drive, the Tours route would be the Jersey Turnpike. 

the last couple of days have been an awful lot of walking by the side of busy roads. Last night I was in a town called Des Ormes; a depressed little burg surrounded by cornfields and dead sunflowers. I stayed an elegantly named place called "Hotel Cheval Blanc" (White Horse Hotel) which was comically bad except for the nice funny lady, Isabel who ran it. My room had a king and a queen sized bed and for some reason I chose the queen size to sleep in. At around 3:30am I realized that the pillow smelled like methlamine (or, as Breaking Bad fans might know, cat piss) so I moved to the king size. 

It was 43e for the room, dinner and this morning's breakfast. Isabel was the only staff present and went home at 4:30. Dinner was left in the fridge and there was a microwave to zap it. BUT LET ME TELL YOU it was PHENOMENAL!  Carrot salad, mushroom salad, cucumber salad and an off-the-charts delicious beets and garlic salad for cold starters followed by a succulent stew of super tender beef and carrots. Breakfast was served by Isabel herself and consisted of a croissant (you can't get a bad croissant in this country) and coffee. 

The walking destination was a big town called Chatelleraut. If you ever get a chance to go there, for God's sake DON'T!  It's a huge sprawling industrial town and my best description of is San Antonio meets East Berlin. The walk there itself was six hours on a narrow busy road with a speed limit of 70km/h (so everybody drove 85). When I say "on a narrow busy road" I don't mean a path beside it, or the shoulder of it. I mean on it. Finally upon reaching city limits the trail passes through an industrial park, then within meters of the sewage treatment plant. 

Eventually I made it to the Tourist Office which was staffed by a couple of very nice, competent women who explained that there were two places to stay within 3km of the trail; a 3 star hotel for e100 or a 0 (zero!) star hotel for e50. I made the obvious choice to fast forward to the next stop and asked directions to the train station. 

E6.8 and a half hour later I arrived here. The Best Western hotel in central Poitiers - for e50!  I love it here and don't want to ever leave. Supposedly the head of John the Baptist is somewhere in town so I probably ought to spend tomorrow checking it out, right?

I also have a pretty unique blister on the ball of my left foot. I think it's a blood blister covered by a regular blister. Email me if you want a picture of it. 

Anyhow, the next stop is a town called Coulombiers. 

PS the picture on this post is a very cool piece of municipal artwork from a pretty little town I walked though yesterday. It's cut from a single piece of rusted sheet metal over white marble. Cool, huh?

No comments:

Post a Comment