I want to go back to mainstream Europe. But I'm not legally allowed to spend more than five more days there before October.
Fortunately, cheap hotels in Brasov have big flat screen tvs with a decent amount of US programming. A whole new season of Pawn Stars begins July 6th.
Anyway, I'm determined to be back in Madrid for 4th of July and it looks like the most likely date for coming back to the states is the 8th. Can't wait to to watch some Matz games!
Here's a pic of Brasov.
That's it, I'm moving to Brasov.
The area around the Brasov train station is so grim that I considered just hopping on the next train out of there.
The station is two miles from the center of town and the area in between is totally depressing. Even once I made it into town I was pretty traumatized.
But you know what? Brasov is fantastic! I feel like I'm closer to home than I've been in months. My new all-time favorite place in the world is a place called the Hockey Pub. Apparently the owners are NHL fanatics so there is memorabilia all over the place. But that's not why it's my favorite place - the staff is a riot. It's very upscale. The people who work there wear white shirts, black vests and bow ties. When I first got there, one of them, a young woman named Joanna asked me my name, where I'm from, and why I came to Brasov. I told her that at first I wanted to go hiking in the mountains surrounding the town but recently read that there are a lot of bears in those hills. She told me not to worry, I would definately not encounter any bears - but if I did, drop my backpack if I had one, or random pieces of clothes if not. That would distract the bear while I found my escape route. The escape route should ALWAYS be downhill. Bears have a tough time running downhill. It seemed like a lot of advise to give someone who was definately not going to encounter a bear.
So anyway, the place was empty so we watched the Angelina Jolie movie 'Salt'. I'm surprised I hadn't seen it before. It was entertaining. So over 2.5 hours I had a nice salad, chicken fingers, three glasses of wine and two beers. The bill was 67 "Lei" which is about $17. I told the I'd see them tomorrow, as long as I don't get eaten by a bear!
It's a really nice city with tons of potential. Something tells me that when the world economy really starts to recover, Romania will be one of the biggest winners. It reminds me of Madrid in the 80s. A classy place with wide boulevards and a lot of life.
There aren't many flights out of here and the cheapest one to Bucharest leaves at 6AM. There are shuttle busses that run from Goreme (where I am now) to Keyseri Airport and they leave here 2.5 hours before the flight so I'll be on one at 3:30 IN THE MORNING!
But I've seen a lot of Capadocia. Yesterday Mo, Duria, Juan & I rented a car and saw three very cool things. First was the biggest of the carved out structures which is a huge pinacle that had been carved out for dwellings for the past couple of thousand years. Walking to and from it was some of the steepest and slipperiest terrain I've ever seen. Yet lots of people were doing it. Most impressive was a young Russian woman with leather soled sandals carrying a banana.
Next we went to a 1900 year old underground city. Supposedly there are 5000 rooms all connected underground. It's very impressive and included a 150 meter tall ventilation shaft, kitchens, bathrooms, etc. I think early Christians hid there from the Romans or something. The tour guide claimed that on of the carvings is one of the earliest Christian crosses known (picture here).
Finally we drove another hour to the Ihlara Valley and hike along the bottom of it for a couple of hours before Mo & Duria caught their bus home to the south of Turkey. There's a carved out church in the valley with incredibly vivid 9th - 11th century frescoes (picture).
The thing I someday will probably regret not doing is taking a balloon ride. Apparently this is one of the best places in the world to do that. I wasn't thrilled about getting in one of those things and besides you have to get up at 3:00 in the morning. Like I'd ever do that!
This place is other worldly. I set off this morning somewhat frustrated over my inability to get a map of the hiking trails. The guy at my hotel drew me a rough map of where to find at least one trail so I had at least a clue.
The thing this region seems to be most famous for is the cave dwellings. They're not so much caves as they are rooms carved out of the soft rock. Apparently back in the day there was a major volcanic eruption that deposited hundreds of feet of ash and then dozens more feet of lava on top packed it down. Over time wind and water eroded the ash into weird formations that people (troglodytes!) carved out to live in.
So I took off down my first trail this morning and it felt weird without a backpack or walking stick. I got about a km down the trail where there was a narrow drop that intimidated me so I went back to where I started. There I met three people, a Lebanese brother & sister (Mo & Druse (?)) and Juan from Argentina who asked me what it was like on that trail. I told them it was very interesting and very narrow and steep in places. So with their company I went back and tried it again. It really wasn't very hard once I saw the technique. Juan is like a freaking mountain goat so we all just did what he did only more slowly. We had to go down three sets of fixed ladders but saw some very cool stuff. We only came across three or four other groups but it's a really unique place with these mini cafés every few km.
Just when I was getting the swing of things. I found a bar that sells Duvel beer for 14TL per bottle. Thats like $4!
The reception lady at the hotel insisted that she could get me the best deal for my ride to the airport tomorrow, flight to Capodocia, 70km ride from the airport to the town I'll be staying in (Goreme) and first night hotel. The price her travel agent came up with waz €300. I put it together myself for €100. Flying Turkish Airlines from the good airport (Ataturk) and staying in a decent hotel (Guven Cave Hotel). We'll see how it works out!
There's a lot of knock-off products in Istanbul. In fact I'm wearing a $6 Tommy Hilfiger Polo shirt as we speak. Theres a tunnel under the higway b3tween the spice market and Galata bridge that takes it to a whole new level. In terms of knock-off hutzpah, this vendor takes the cake.
My pal Stolp from Amagansett imports rugs from Turkey. I pinged him for advise yesterday and he suggested I check out an are called Beyoglu on the other side of the Galata Bridge. Thats where I am now. It's not Asia. I sense that Asian Istanbul is kind of like Staten Island (In fact I took the ferry there yesterday). Using NYC terminology there are three boroughs in Istanbul, separated by the Bosphorus. Bosphorus is a straight between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea. and the curved part that divides Istanbul is called the Golden Horn.
First of all, I'd install some traffic lights. I've seen about three in the three days since getting here. The main past time here is avoiding being hit by a car or a tram. The trams are long, fast and run right along the side of the road so you can't see traffic on the other side of them. Istanbul is also a city of sidewalk cafés. These cafés take up the ENTIRE sidewalk and sometimes extend a few feet into the road itself. I've only seen two bicyclists, and they were using the tram tracks as a bike path, which is impressive since they are riding parallel to the sunken tram tracks.
Restraunteers and merchants are insane. Do not make eye contact with them! They have a very difficult time taking no for an answer. Their insistence on haggling is exhausting. Even my hotel - which I booked online tried tried to haggle. In the end that worked out though - I got an 8% discount for paying cash.
I took a ferry across to Asia and back this afternoon. It really is a magnificent city. I'd like to check out the new city. There's a Shake Shack there!
Aside from foreigners most women at least wear scarves on their heads. But they don't seem especially modest. Maybe it's not surprising that some of the most bundled up seem to be the most put together of all.
I've seen more selfie sticks today than in the rest of my life combined.
This city is like NYC only twice the size. Yellow cabs, bad traffic, lots of water & bridges and plenty of places to eat - and drink at 11:30 on a Tuesday night.
Apparently even the cheap hotels like mine compete with each other over having the best (free!) breakfast. It's everything except bacon. Awesome ratatouille - like veggies, scrambled eggs, meatballs, all sorts of fruit, cereals - you name it.
I'm just headed out this am and only took one picture last night, which didn't come out very well. It's the Blue Mosque and those dots are seagulls.
I did find a restaurant that I thought was great. I don't think it's in the top 10,000 on trip advisor though!
All in all, not bad. We left Madrid two hours late and got into Istanbul one hour late. Half hour in the passport control line, no bags to check and in a shuttle bus to town. The bus cost 45 lira which is somewhere between $10 and $100. Actually they would have accepted €15 so it must be around that.
Here's my first picture of Istanbul ...
Titling your blog post "Tomorrow" means there isn't much to say about today. I did firm up my plans for tomorrow though. I should land in Istanbul by 7:30 or so. I'm flying into the equivalent of Newark Airport so it will probably be a long grim trek into town.
I'll be staying in Sultanahmet tomorrow and Wednesday, and take it from there. Sandi helped me decide not to bring either my laptop nor jeans on this part. Of course the walking stick is staying here at Menorca as well!
Maybe not tomorrow, but still thinking that Istanbul is the next stop. I'm not sure if I should bring my freaking laptop or jeans - the two heaviest things I have with me. Anyway, I hope everybody's well. I miss you all. Anyone up for a trip to Turkey? :)
The winner is Bordi Berri. As elegant as the Shagwong in Montauk but less than half the size with food that is goosebump good. I managed six pintxos in two visits. Chunk of duck breast in pureed, carmelized onion & applesauce (I think), a big 'falling off the bone' spare rib in a more sweet than sour sauce, two inch chunk of Galician style pulpo, and a gazpacho - like soup called Salmorejo.
I happenned to be walking past Bar Nestor as it was opening for the evening and reserved a piece of tortilla. I was standing in the street at the window and was able to see Nestor himself making the tortilla. It took a full half hour and given how he does it (slowly!) I can see why he only makes two per day.
I'm on the bus now from San Sebastian to Madrid.
McDonald's either has a good sense of humor, good marketing department or both. This McD's is strategically positioned in the Bretxa Market, at the entrance to the serious food district.
The place wasn't even open yet. We all had to crouch under the gate to get in. Still I arrived at Bar Nestor too late to get a bar stool. An American couple saw me heading for the last one and snatched it.
I realized that I had actually won that war for the seat when they confidently ordered two pieces of tortilla. They weren't even close to being one of the 16 lucky tortilla eaters. Off they went.
The tortilla was great but really it wasn't a meal. It started pouring so I'm stuck at Bar Nestor. A guy has to eat, and they only serve one thing. Besides, Derrrvo pointed out the lameness of only taking a picture of the carnage. So I had no choice.
Bar Nestor doesn't open for another 20 minutes but I walked by and the guy reserved me a piece of the 1 o'clock tortilla. Supposedly it's known as one of the best in all of Spain, and they only make two per day. One comes out at 1PM, the other 8PM.
http://m.travel.cnn.com/san-sebastians-amazing-street-michelin-experience-736551
Some people follow the Michelin Guide, others rely on gourmet magazines to advise them where to eat. I'm a Tripadvisor person. It's the consensus of lots of people from all over. The Applebys crowd and the celebrity chef snobs cancel each out so what's left is the consensus opinion of people who like food.
Using TA as my guide, I went to three "top 15" places earlier today. The first one is like Jill's 'Market Bar' in Madrid, only smaller and fancier. I slept late and didn't get there till almost 11. They had delicious looking treats from the bakery to I ordered a coffee and was about to order a chocolate croissant but then changed my mind. I had a piece of anchovy tortilla that was fantastic.
After looking around for a couple of hours it was lunch time. I started with some pinxtos, which are like mini-meals. The place I went was one of those places that's like a food lab / studio. I only had a couple of basic mushroom-on-toast things but got to witness some crazy looking stuff with dry ice, ice cream in clear sugar cones, baby squid suspended in globes of some kind of gelatin - stuff like that.
But the big event of the day was lunch itself. I hadn't had a steak in a long time but I spotted an opening at the bar at Bar Nestor. It's number three on Tripadvisor - and a steak place. There's only one table (s four-top) so everyone eats at the bar!! They only serve one thing, a tomatoes in olive oil salad followed by small green peppers flash fried in olive oil with sea salt, followed by a big ol bone-in ribeye. Basque style. Seared on both sides, sliced up and on a sizzling metal platter.
It was one of the bigger steaks I've ever seen but I finished the while thing. It was delish. Tomatoes, peppers, steak, three glasses of vino tinto and a coffee for €45. Not cheap but not bad for the number three restaurant in San Sebastian!
Anyway, I'm headed out for dinner!
I'm about to embark on a meal at Bar Nestor so big and decadent that I'm nervous about it.
On the train headed for San Sebastian. As Dave pointed out I'll be getting in just in time for dinner!
I'm going to try for three full meals tomorrow. The number two (Tripadvisor) restaurant seems to specialize at breakfast.
And you know what that means! I'm STILL in Santiago, deciding where to go next. I have a littke more than two weeks of legality in "mainstream" Europe.
Flights to istanbul seem incredibly cheap so that's a likely next destination for me. I would like to spend some time with Jill and Sandi in Madrid, but of course they work during the week. So I could meander back and get to Madrid by the weekend. If I do that, I was thinking of hiking in the Picos de Europe but they're hard to get to. Or maybe a train to San Sebastian to pig out for a couple of days.
Anyway. Thats what's happening here.
Yay Jill for giving me two weeks notice that I'm about to overstay my welcome! There is something called the Schengen Agreement that says that non-Europeans can only stay in Europe for 90 days out of every 180. I've been here for about 70 now so I'll have to be moving along.
After "last call" at a bar back in Greenwich there there was a bartender who would yell out "You don't have to go home, but you can't stay here!" There are some nearby non-Schengen countries that seem like they might be worth a visit, even if just for a few days. So I'm looking into side-trips to Turkey and Romania.
I'm still undecided about what to do tomorrow. I'm hearing mixed reviews about the walk to Muxia. It seems that the only place busses go to from here (Finisterre) is back to Santiago. Anyway, I'll keep you posted. Finisterre is very nice. It reminds me of a cross between Cape Cod and Hammersly.
I'm tired today and in a town on the Atlantic coast named Cee. I'll probably go to Finisterre tomorrow. I'm really looking forward to getting on some kind of vehicle with wheels!
I did come face to face with some cows on the road yesterday.
An hour and a half after leaving the odd little town I was in last night I was kicking myself for not taking a bus to Finisterre.
It's hard for me to get excited about walking to Finisterre because I just spent three weeks on the coast. But i think the Dutch guys and Ana from Asturias (all of my friends from 'del Norte') are in Finesterre tonight.
In the end, I was too lazy to figure out how to take the bus. So I walked nine hours to get to this place (name of the town starts with an "O"). I'm glad I did. I walked for a couple of hours with Theresa and Donal from Cork, and another couple of hours with Karen from NYC. It was a long but enjoyable day.
As I got closer to this town, with the name that starts with "O", and also closer to Finisterre, the terrain started looking very familiar. It looked to me like Lazy Point in Napeague.
Finisterre and Muxia are on the Atlantic coast. It's four days to Muxia and I'm interested to see what that part of the walk is like and who does it. At the moment my plan is to pack up and set out towards those parts tomorrow am. I saw the Dutch guys earlier today. We're going to get something to eat later but I do t know if we'll get a queimada. We may not have enough people. But whatever.
I'm a little bummed that I didn't make the chance to jump the barrier and put my hand on the column that's now off limits to touch. If I got yelled at I'd use the "plenary indulgence" defense. I may have used that earlier today though. I went down to see the silver box of St. James remains in the cathedral. It's in a little passageway under the alter and I banged my head on the ceiling at the top of the steps on the way out. Without thinking I muttered an exasperated "Jesus!" and got an ironic smile from a couple walking by.
