Sunday, March 29, 2015

The Perfect Union of Meat and Bean

I was kind of nervous about the big climb only three days into this trip. I'm glad I didn't know there was another one almost the same size later in the day. Still, the climb isn't as bad as the descent. You can take baby steps on the way up but on the way down the terrain dictates how big the steps are. I'm not aftaid of falling on the way up anywhere near as much on the way down.

The weather changed completely once I got to the top of the first climb.  the temperature dropped by 20 degrees F and it was incredibly windy and a little rainy. I got some really nice pictures but might not be able to attach them today. Where I am now has neither wifi nor cell service so I'll take a walk around when I'm done and find a signal.

I'm in a town called St. Jean de la Baquiere which for some reason I thought was a happening spot. It's a beautiful wine town but definately not happening. My guide book lists six B&Bs; I called all six. Five didn't answer and the sixth said they weren't home, so no luck there either.    A guy drove up to the bench where I was making my calls and after a Frenglish dialog told me I could sleep at town hall for €15. 

To make a long story shorter, I'll just say he was right, and here I am. I asked the town hall lady where I could get some food. there aren't any restaurants or food stores open this time of year so she walked me over to someone's house who could sell me some food. I think it was the mayor because he collected the €15 for the lodging.

So I got a big chunk of Manchego, two cans of "Kanterbrau" beer (not bad!), A bottle of local wine (called Paul Issen, Domaine de la Parro, which is fantastic!), a tin of sardines and a big can of cassoulet. All for €9. The NY Times had a big article about cassoulet awhile back that declared it "the perfect union of meat and bean".  The can was €1.20 so maybe not THE perfect union. More like a French version of franks and beans. It still hit the spot.

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