Saturday, June 13, 2015
Friday, June 12, 2015
Bordi Berri
The winner is Bordi Berri. As elegant as the Shagwong in Montauk but less than half the size with food that is goosebump good. I managed six pintxos in two visits. Chunk of duck breast in pureed, carmelized onion & applesauce (I think), a big 'falling off the bone' spare rib in a more sweet than sour sauce, two inch chunk of Galician style pulpo, and a gazpacho - like soup called Salmorejo.
I happenned to be walking past Bar Nestor as it was opening for the evening and reserved a piece of tortilla. I was standing in the street at the window and was able to see Nestor himself making the tortilla. It took a full half hour and given how he does it (slowly!) I can see why he only makes two per day.
I'm on the bus now from San Sebastian to Madrid.
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
Like Donald Trump Running For President
McDonald's either has a good sense of humor, good marketing department or both. This McD's is strategically positioned in the Bretxa Market, at the entrance to the serious food district.
I'll Blame Derrrvo
The place wasn't even open yet. We all had to crouch under the gate to get in. Still I arrived at Bar Nestor too late to get a bar stool. An American couple saw me heading for the last one and snatched it.
I realized that I had actually won that war for the seat when they confidently ordered two pieces of tortilla. They weren't even close to being one of the 16 lucky tortilla eaters. Off they went.
The tortilla was great but really it wasn't a meal. It started pouring so I'm stuck at Bar Nestor. A guy has to eat, and they only serve one thing. Besides, Derrrvo pointed out the lameness of only taking a picture of the carnage. So I had no choice.
Almost Tortilla O'clock
Bar Nestor doesn't open for another 20 minutes but I walked by and the guy reserved me a piece of the 1 o'clock tortilla. Supposedly it's known as one of the best in all of Spain, and they only make two per day. One comes out at 1PM, the other 8PM.
http://m.travel.cnn.com/san-sebastians-amazing-street-michelin-experience-736551
Tuesday, June 9, 2015
I'll Never Make It As A Food Photographer
Some people follow the Michelin Guide, others rely on gourmet magazines to advise them where to eat. I'm a Tripadvisor person. It's the consensus of lots of people from all over. The Applebys crowd and the celebrity chef snobs cancel each out so what's left is the consensus opinion of people who like food.
Using TA as my guide, I went to three "top 15" places earlier today. The first one is like Jill's 'Market Bar' in Madrid, only smaller and fancier. I slept late and didn't get there till almost 11. They had delicious looking treats from the bakery to I ordered a coffee and was about to order a chocolate croissant but then changed my mind. I had a piece of anchovy tortilla that was fantastic.
After looking around for a couple of hours it was lunch time. I started with some pinxtos, which are like mini-meals. The place I went was one of those places that's like a food lab / studio. I only had a couple of basic mushroom-on-toast things but got to witness some crazy looking stuff with dry ice, ice cream in clear sugar cones, baby squid suspended in globes of some kind of gelatin - stuff like that.
But the big event of the day was lunch itself. I hadn't had a steak in a long time but I spotted an opening at the bar at Bar Nestor. It's number three on Tripadvisor - and a steak place. There's only one table (s four-top) so everyone eats at the bar!! They only serve one thing, a tomatoes in olive oil salad followed by small green peppers flash fried in olive oil with sea salt, followed by a big ol bone-in ribeye. Basque style. Seared on both sides, sliced up and on a sizzling metal platter.
It was one of the bigger steaks I've ever seen but I finished the while thing. It was delish. Tomatoes, peppers, steak, three glasses of vino tinto and a coffee for €45. Not cheap but not bad for the number three restaurant in San Sebastian!
Anyway, I'm headed out for dinner!
Bar Nestor
I'm about to embark on a meal at Bar Nestor so big and decadent that I'm nervous about it.