I take back all those nasty things I said and thought about the meseta. I was expecting it to be like the Landes region of France; flat as a pancake with 10km stretches of perfectly straight roads. But it's more like something out of a fairy tale. For the most part the roads are dirt paths that must have been the same ones pilgrims walked since the beginning of the Camino. Since its just about all farmland, the terrain must look a lot like it did 1000 years ago.
Back in the 1700's, John Adams was on a trip to Paris when his ship started taking on water off of Finisterre. He ended up walking most of the Camino in reverse so as I walk west to Santiago it's not hard for me to imagine passing Adams on his way east.
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