Belgians Bearing Beer

I'd blame Belgian buddies Nico and Fred for being a bad influence, but really I knew better. At least I should have. Yesterday, 8km into the climb up from SJPdP, after a climb of 400 meters in 3km Graham and I arrived at a nice rest stop where they sold refreshments. It was about 11am and out on the deck were these two guys starting on their second beers and lighting up cigarettes. Given the fact that they still had 600 meters to climb in the next 8km, I was impressed. 

I was taking a break on the way from Roncesvalles to Zubiri this morning when they walked by and recognized me from the terrace. 

  "You're from New York?!"

  "You're the guys from the terrace who were drinking beers and smoking cigs a                third of the way up the pass yesterday!?"

We talked a little more and joked about meeting at the next bar. A couple of hours later, at about the halfway point of the 22km walk, I was walking with Doreen from Sweden, who carries a backpack and three shopping bags - and  who do you think we see but Nico and Fred waving us in to have some beer for lunch. 

Decorum of course dictated that each person buy a round, so four beers and two hours later we were off for the final 11km of the day. 

During beerunch, we were joined by Graham and a friend of Doreen's. Thankfully, they were outside the circle of decorum.  As walkers, we dispersed almost immediately with Nico & Fred out front, with me, Graham and Doreen behind.   So anyhow, a couple of hours later Graham, Doreen and I had dispersed and I walked into Zubiri alone. 

To enter Zubiri from the Camino one crosses the Puente de la Rabia. The bridge got its name because apparently if an animal with rabies circles the central arch three times, it will be cured. At first I thought that sounded like a huge pile of crap but to circle that arch I'm pretty sure  you'd have to go into the river. And isn't that the biggest fear of a rabid animal?  

Anyway, I crossed the Puente de la Rabia and walked a few steps into the village square. There they were, Nico drinking a Mahou and Fred drinking a Heineken. Belgians.