Look at This Orange

The nicest one I've ever seen.

Brutal Wind

I was scared for awhile. The wind was a steady 58km/hr but the gusts at the top seemed way higher. It blew the rain cover off my backpack. I made it into Lunas in one piece though. The next two days are harder than today - actually the hardest until I reach the Pyranees.

The wind is supposed to die down a bit over the next couple of days but I'm keeping my options open about what to do tomorrow. One problem is that there's no shelter for 25km on the next stage. Another is that I'm the only person up there so it feels pretty vulnerable. Right now I'm leaning towards going 5km to the next village, walk further up the mountain to see what it's like and go back to the village tomorrow night.

There's no busses along the route so if I bail on this part I'll have to take a cab.  No big deal. Anyway I'm in no hurry.

Little Wine

On previous trips, I've gone through big agro, big timber and big vineyards. So far Languedoc is totally different. There are vineyards everywhere but unlike Bordeaux and even Rioja, I haven't seen any massive vineyards. They're all these little ones that seem to be between one and five acres.

This one is pretty much tucked right in the middle of town.

Bates!

To anyone thinking of visiting Lodève, France, keep in mind that hotels are closed on Mondays from November through March.

As I stood with my nose pressed against the glass door of the tourist office, a helpful local shouted "Ferme Lundi!  Demain!"  Since the hotels aren't open on Mondays, the Tourism office takes a break as well.

Good thing I have my trusty guidebook. It's terrible for directions but the bible for accommodations. So I landed at a Chambre d'Hote  (B&B) for €35.

Regardless of my expectations, every time I snag myself a place to stay for the night, no matter how humble, I think of my idol - Bates from Downton Abbey. I say to myself what he said when Thomas first showed him his crappy little room. "I shall be very happy here. Very happy indeed."

The Perfect Union of Meat and Bean

I was kind of nervous about the big climb only three days into this trip. I'm glad I didn't know there was another one almost the same size later in the day. Still, the climb isn't as bad as the descent. You can take baby steps on the way up but on the way down the terrain dictates how big the steps are. I'm not aftaid of falling on the way up anywhere near as much on the way down.

The weather changed completely once I got to the top of the first climb.  the temperature dropped by 20 degrees F and it was incredibly windy and a little rainy. I got some really nice pictures but might not be able to attach them today. Where I am now has neither wifi nor cell service so I'll take a walk around when I'm done and find a signal.

I'm in a town called St. Jean de la Baquiere which for some reason I thought was a happening spot. It's a beautiful wine town but definately not happening. My guide book lists six B&Bs; I called all six. Five didn't answer and the sixth said they weren't home, so no luck there either.    A guy drove up to the bench where I was making my calls and after a Frenglish dialog told me I could sleep at town hall for €15. 

To make a long story shorter, I'll just say he was right, and here I am. I asked the town hall lady where I could get some food. there aren't any restaurants or food stores open this time of year so she walked me over to someone's house who could sell me some food. I think it was the mayor because he collected the €15 for the lodging.

So I got a big chunk of Manchego, two cans of "Kanterbrau" beer (not bad!), A bottle of local wine (called Paul Issen, Domaine de la Parro, which is fantastic!), a tin of sardines and a big can of cassoulet. All for €9. The NY Times had a big article about cassoulet awhile back that declared it "the perfect union of meat and bean".  The can was €1.20 so maybe not THE perfect union. More like a French version of franks and beans. It still hit the spot.

Nothing the NSA Didn't Already Know

This is kind of funny if you zoom into the town I'm in. It shows everywhere I walked, looking for happy hour.  http://mapmyrun.com/workout/920962311

Not Like It's the Dawn Wall

Except maybe to me. I ain't 52 anymore you know and tomorrow it gets real.

Okay I'm being dramatic. Still, the next 200km are very hilly and I'm very whiney.

The first 2 km tomorrow gains 375m in altitude. I spent part of the day looking for a Sherpa to carry my laptop but it looks like I'll have to solo it. Did you follow the Dawn Wall saga this last January? 

Pre-Weather Channel

People around here stick these things on their doors in the summertime.  Nowadays I think it's just for decoration but apparently the leaves close around the center when it's about to rain.

On the first Sunday in May everybody bakes bread in the shape of a cross and has it blessed. They don't eat it though, they keep it around all year round to protect their houses from being struck by lightning.

Sometimes I'm Glad My Feet Hurt

About 10km into today's route I got into St. Guilhem de Desert and the place is so interesting that I decided to stay for the night. My tender city feet made the decision easy.

This may be the most interesting place I've ever been. It's designated as one of the "Plus Beau Villages de France" (I've only been to one other - Conques), A "Grand Site de France", and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The town is in the Gellone Valley which was formed by the Verus river.

It dates back to the year 804. Guilhem was given a fragment of the "True Cross" by his cousin Charlemagne and created a monastery here.

The coolest thing Guilhem did though was to save the village from a terrible giant who had a magpie as a sidekick. Guilhelm dressed up as a maid and fought the giant with his trusty sword, named "Joyful".  This has to be true because you can't make this stuff up.

Glad I brought my freaking LAPTOP!

I was too damn cheap to get a tablet so I figured what the hell my laptop is pretty light. I'll bring that instead. As usual I'm blogging from my phone flat on my back.

Thats right, I'm caminoing again - two years older and carrying a freaking laptop.   You know I'm not a particularly religious guy but maybe there's significance in bearing that extra weight on my back.

Anyhow, I got into Madrid on Tuesday morning after an extraordinarily comfortable flight (thanks cousin B!) and had a nice time Tuesday evening with Jill & Sandi.

My starting point this time around was Montpellier, France on the "Arles route" of the camino. I got into Montpellier on Wednesday evening and scored a €33 hotel room in the middle of town. St. Roch, the patron saint of pilgrims is buried at St. Rochs church - which is in Montpellier!  I went to the church to pick up my "passport" and the lady there didn't know what I was talking about.

Anyway, I took off this morning after breakfast (the usual croissant, yogurt and coffee) and by the time I reached the town I'm in I was afraid to take off my boots because I thought they were the only things holding my feet together.

Whining aside, it was a pretty great day. All sunshine in the mid 60s. Spring is definately here. Buds on the trees and bugs in the air.

I'm not sure if this link works for anyone but me. If it does, it will show my route as well as a topographic chart.

http://mapmyrun.com/workout/919958555

I'll post some pics tomorrow. I'm beyond wifi range at the place I'm staying and I'll be staying horizontal until morning or nature calls! :)